Portugal is Pretty!
/We just got back from a lovely (but quick) jaunt to Lisbon and Porto. With limited time and jet lag, we could not see it all, but we sure got a wonderful taste of these two sun soaked, stunning, seaside cities of Portugal.
Why Portugal?
Direct flights just under 7 hours, picturesque coastal vistas, plenty of sunshine, great wine, pristine seafood and reasonable pricing have made Lisbon and Porto increasingly popular travel destinations.
We were also motivated to visit by the fact that neither city has Mona Lisa or Coliseum level tourist attractions - rather, there are places and things to see and explore, but not the kind of stuff that requires you to set an alarm and battle hordes of tourists.
If you DO decide to visit either of these Portuguese cities, PLEASE note that they are both incredibly hilly. Your calves will burn as you explore and you'll find that even a 9 minute walk on Google Maps is daunting if it's all uphill. We walked a TON on this trip, but I'd recommend taking an Uber when headed uphill (generally when heading north and away from the water) and then walking south. Ubers are plentiful and cheap in both cities.
When In Lisboa
Lisbon is the largest and by far most visited city in Portugal (and it’s the country’s capital). Lisbon is clean and cosmopolitan and generally has all the comforts you'd find at home. It's basically a "world city" that almost anyone could be happy to live in.
On our trip, we divided our two days into exploring the happening districts of Chiado, Baixa and Barrio Alto on day one, and then we visited Alfama, the historical and oldest neighborhood of Libson, on our second day.
Our hotel, Corpo Santo Hotel, was absolutely perfect (incredible hospitality) and located in Cais do Sodré, on the banks of the Tagus River. We were super tired on our first day, but having a drink at Quiosque Ribeira das Naus overlooking the water gave us some much needed pep.
In Alfama, like many tourists, we visited Sao Jorge Castle for picturesque hilltop views and some surprisingly great peacock watching. Walking just a few minutes from the Castle, there is a nice seaside plaza by the Statue of Saint Vincent where you can relax over a glass of Venho Verde.
Unfortunately, we didn't have time for the popular Lisbon day trip to nearby Sintra on our visit.
When in Oporto
Even though our time in Lisbon was short, I'm really glad we added on Porto, instead of just staying in the capital. Just north of Lisbon and accessible by an easy 3 hour train, Porto is the birthplace of port wine and a gateway to the absolutely MUST DO Douro Valley, the oldest demarcated wine region in the world.
Porto has also retained a lot more of its authenticity than Lisbon. It's a grittier city for sure, but it generally feels more traditionally Portuguese, in large part due to its more compact size. The hills are still rough in Porto, but I could have spent all summer getting lost in its many charming alleyways (and many wine bars).
The weather is also notably cooler in Porto. Lisbon is known for its frequent and beautiful sunshine, but with summer temps reaching above 75, that sunshine, plus Lisbon’s many hills will make you sweat as you explore. In Porto, we experienced the glory of sunny and 66 degree weather. Heavenly.
While in Porto, we did not get to visit Livraria Lello (advance tickets required), the obscenely popular and touristy bookstore made famous by its age, its book offerings and its Instagrammable staircase. We did, however, and I recommend you do too, see at least one of the stunning blue tiled churches or the blue tiling in São Bento railway station while in Porto.
The most popular activity in Porto, which is not technically in Porto, is to walk over the Dom Luis I Bridge into Gaia. The views on either side of the Douro River from the bridge and coast line are spectacular. And Gaia is where you'll find all the famous Porto port houses. Many port houses require advance reservations for a tour and tasting, but we were able to - after a grueling uphill walk - visit the tasting room and garden at Taylor's Fladgate without any advance planning. I really don't like port much, but the garden at Taylor’s made for a very pretty spot to relax and drink in.
The Douro Valley Is Unmissable
My goodness is this area of Portugal stunning. Miles of rolling hills and valleys covered with vineyards, olive trees and the perfect amount of red roofed homes and of course, wineries.
We visited the Douro Valley on a full day tour through A Day In Douro via Get Your Guide. The excellent tour included transportation to and from Porto in a plush Mercedes van, visits to two small, family owned vineyards, an hour long boat trip on the Douro River (complete with snacks and sparkling wine), and a lovely full lunch served at the second winery. We had both great hosts and co-passengers and sunny weather on our visit. It was perfect! The vistas were remarkable, the wine and port were free flowing and both wineries were so charming. PS IMHO port tastes better after you've already drunk wine!
This was a MUST DO experience!
The Food In Portugal
Countries like France and Italy are known for their cuisine but traditional Portuguese food, much like its neighbor in Spain's Basque region, can be really incredible.
In Lisbon we had a terrific meal at Cervejaria Ramiro, made famous by a 2012 Anthony Bourdain episode of No Reservations. The place is packed, particularly with tourists, but the atmosphere is lively and friendly and the seafood focused menu is delicious. Adding to the atmosphere, waiters bring your live seafood to your table so that you can inspect and approve of it (and take pictures) before it's cooked and served to you.
We also had a great traditional Portuguese lunch at the tiny and quaint Taberna da Rua das Flores. The daily menu is written on a chalkboard and waiters will take their time to translate it to you in English. Everything we had here was delicious.
With locations in both Lisbon and Porto, Manteigaria is your spot for the best Pasteis de Nata.
We were generally a bit less successful with good eats in Porto. But on our last day, we waited almost 2 hours to get into Taberna dos Mercadores and it was so worth it. An incredible 20 seat tavern located on the most charming alleyway. Reservations are hard to come by but make getting one a priority.
Obrigada for a wonderful trip, Portugal! There is nothing better than travel!
